Trip Difficulty: Technical Challenging
Trip Style: Peak Climbing
Transport: Private Vehicle / Bus
Food: Breakfast + Lunch + Dinner
Group Size: 2-10
Max Elevation: 6,151m/20,113ft
Climbing Route: South-SouthEast Face
2nd Ascent Mission: Arrival Date: 15th April
Best time: October/Nov/April/May
Gyalsten Peak 6,151 m is located in the Jugal Range, north east from Kathmandu Valley, Nepal. It is one of the shortest remote trekking/Climbing destinations at a distance of 145 kms from Kathmandu. There are a total of 11 Peaks (majority of them are unclimbed) of above 6,000 m in the Jugal Range and one of them being the Gyalzen Peak. The first ascent, via the south-southeast face, of Gyalzen Peak was made on 9th April, 2019 by a Nepalese Team, Technically Led by Mr. Tul Singh Gurung (Mountain Guide-of Himalaya Summit Club) and Team leader Miss Maya Gurung. It was historical moment because of that valley
The Valley was explored on 1955 by (U.K.) female mountaineering expedition team and climbed to the head of the Jugal Glacier peak-6,705m as well. And This peak was climbed subsequently by two Japanese expeditions in the early 1960s. According to local report since 1960s there were no anyone Tourist traveled.
So 9th April, 2019 is the historic moment of that valley because of 1st ascent Mt Gyalzen and even explored culture, nature by a Nepalese Team.
The trekking trail offers you a panoramic view of Phurbaghechyu 6,637 m, Jugal Yangri Peak 6,535 m, Gyalzen Peak 6,151 m, Dorje Lakpa 6,966 m, Gumba Chuli, Langpogang West 6,979 m, Bhairav Takura 6,799 m, Langtang range and Gaurishankar Range. The trek takes you through lush green fields, dense forests, winding roads, water falls, alongside the running Balefi river of Sindhupalchok district. You will trek through quaint villages untouched by the modern world. Residents of these villages comprise of people from the Tamang, Sherpa, Newar, Gurung, Brahmin and Chettri communities. This trek offers you the experience of Nature, Culture and Adventure that best befits Nepal. One can also explore the caves in Ne Pemasal 3,500 m where Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava) is believed to have meditated in the 8th century by the Buddhists and the locals alike. Interestingly, you can use the same base camp as the gateway to reach 6 other Peaks of above 6,000 m! And it’s really virgin place/No Crowed for Trekkers and climbers.
The Expedition Group
For the Gyalzen peak Expedition, there will be one lead International Certified Nepalese Mountain Guide (NNMGA/IFMGA) Assistant Climbing Guide (level-2 Mountaineering Done Train Guide) (2 Climbers:1 assistant guide) and Sherpa porters for luggage carrying (2 Climbers:1 porter) This arrangement ensures that should anybody in the group is sick, the trip can still go ahead as planned. We can run the Expedition for groups of any size, but usually, it is a maximum of twelve people as we've found this to be the optimum size for a successful trip. However, if you'd like to book this trip for a large group then that can be arranged too.
We will be staying at Hotel Marshyandi/Moon light Hotel/Yatri Suites Spa Hotel in Kathmandu and teahouses during the trek. All accommodations are on twin-shared basis. Single supplement will be served on request and will cost an additional USD. Himalaya Summit Club will arrange rooms with attached washrooms; however, teahouses in some places only have shared washing and toilet facilities. Also note that single rooms are readily available in Kathmandu and the trekking regions at lower elevation but it might be difficult to find them at higher elevations.
During our Expedition, we can enjoy authentic Nepalese food as well the more common international cuisine (Tibetan, Continental, Italian, Indian, etc.). Breakfast and dinner will be served from the teahouse or from a lodge menu where we spend the night whereas lunch will be served on the way to the next destination, where we can find lodges or Home stay. And where starting Tented camp will have our expedition Cook serve will breakfast, Lunch and Dinner with fresh vegetable, fresh meet item sometime and hygienic as well. But above Base camp will alpine style foods. There will also be welcome and farewell dinners for guests.
It is a condition upon joining any of Himalaya Summit Club trips that all clients be insured for comprehensive expenses that might incur due to medical issues or accidents (this includes air ambulance, helicopter rescue, and treatment costs). Please note that we don't arrange or sell insurance.
This trek's itinerary is planned with a high degree of awareness of AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness). Going up at higher altitudes too fast causes a medical condition serious enough to result in death. The higher the altitude, the less oxygen will be in the air. For example, at an altitude above of 5000m, there is 50% less oxygen than at sea level. Therefore, our body needs many days to adapt to an environment with less-oxygen.
Himalaya Summit Club advises guest(s) with known heart, lungs or blood diseases to consult their doctor before traveling. Mild headaches, fever, loss of appetite or stomach disorders are symptoms of AMS. Check out "Altitude illness" by Dr Jim Duff, whether once you getting in Kathmandu you can we will arrange to meet with Expedition Doctor Mr. Nima Namgel Sherpa. Himalaya Summit Club itineraries are designed to try to prevent AMS as much as possible. But, it is important to remember that some visitors are more vulnerable than others.
Best Time to Travel
Spring (March to May) and Autumn (September to November) are the best months for this trip. Although this trip can be taken during winter, there might be a problem due to obstructed pass due to ice or snow. The trekking routes are crowded during Spring and Autumn but during Monsoon and Winter the routes are not packed and we could enjoy rather best of nature.
News of 1st Ascent on American Alpine Club Jornel:
Cost and further details please mail us.